Stellar it may may not have been but Stella it certainly was. Ms McCartney showed a collection that wasn’t going to go down in fashion history but should certainly sell and also had plenty of ideas to inspire the high street. This is what we think mattered.
McCartney offered up some of the easiest, most covetable pantsuits seen during Fashion Month with relaxed cuts (despite the shoulder padding) and wearably oversized proportions. In the palest tones, the jackets and pants will both work as standalone items, the former acting as a foil to more feminine pieces or utility separates, and the latter working well with one of the season’s statement blouses.
The zip was the statement trim that came in places you’d expect it (multi-zip pants, drawstring summer coats, crisp white zipped jumpsuits) but also delivered some surprises. How about a traditional lace and charmeuse slip dress that unzips to reveal sheer inserts, or a flirty dress in jersey with zips acting as a frill trim?
Relaxed after-dark dressing
Short or long sheer silks with multiple rows of tiny frill trims looked like a surefire summer evening dressing hit, while the fullest sleeves on a shimmer floral mini or maxi, and deconstructed slip dresses proved to be an ultra-feminine contrast to the more utilitarian and masculine pieces in the collection.
Remember the age of the ‘flirty’ dress back in the 90s? It’s back again with soft minis that are cut to fit and flare from the waist or with an almost-empire-line silhouette. Cut in fine jerseys or lace, the hems or seams have a frill finish to add to the girlish feel.
This wasn’t an athleisure collection but its influence was woven (or should that be knitted?) throughout. Cycle shorts, fitted cycle-style jerseys in florals, and football jerseys, were the most obvious interpretation of the trend, but even the girliest dresses had a sporty edge with fitted jersey bodices.
The sunglasses were uncompromising and had a sporty edge with all-in-one construction for the lenses and colour contrast frames.
Ultra-commercial, tie dye made a huge impact on the collection’s T-shirts in pale pastels and is bound to be picked up by the high street. But it was also strong for denim adding weight to a general seasonal trend for retro denim finishes.